I hate to spend to much effort promoting certain duck call brands. First off, if they're not paying me, then I'm not all about the free and "expert" advice. But, since I'm not an expert, it's just informational on what I think is actually the best.
Calling ducks isn't necessarily a strong tradition in North Carolina. Goose Calling in and around Currituck is - but only by mouth...no calls needed for those guys. And swan calling - well, commercial calls are available, but you're very best Ric Flair impression will suffice. Nevertheless, modern mass marketing has influenced us into believingthat we do in fact need a duck call to shoot lots of ducks. I have close to 20 duck calls, so it's safe to say that I am a victim of the gimmick and impulse involved in this marketing ploy. Alas, the most important thing to remember is that without practice, your calling will do more bad than good. In my early years, my calling definitely convinced more ducks to fly away than to fly by. However, I spent more time blowing the duck call in the truck than in the marsh - which is what helped me arrive at a somewhat level of fair proficiency. And I've tried all the calls, too. As a general rule of thumb, blow the call before you buy it. Go to a store or to a maker's shop and blow the call. Blow it loud, even if you're bad. And don't let the salesman tell you it sounds good. You know if you sound like krap or not, and should decide based on that. Different brands are built based on the DESIGNER'S style - not yours. Also - the fancy colors and etchings don't help the functionality of the call, so set your mind on to purchasing a solid black call or green call FIRST. After your skill set is developed, you can buy a chartreuse colored call for all I care. Another rule of thumb - if it's fairly popular among your friends, then it's probably a decent brand to blow and buy...
Duck Commander - I don't like that these guys have over-glamorized duck hunting. Still, Ol' Phil made some nice duck calls that, to me, are pretty ducky sounding and are great for novices. I preferred the Green Mile call in my younger years. It's good on the high end, and does require an awful amount of grunting, which is tough for a beginner to master. It's a nice, easy two reed.
RNT - These calls can be especially squeally....but that's good. I only but the single reeds in the high end brands. They were designed with a single reed, so the double reeds just don't sound very authentic. I especially like the single reeds for the "hiccup" call, which apparently is all the rage now, even though I've been blowing the hiccup for several years. Single reeds are tough to master the feed call with, but practice pays off. If I were a novice caller, I'd stay away from this brand until I had developed a repertoire on several very different calls.
Echo Calls - These are a skilled, working man's call. I like them, especially the bottom end poly carbonate calls. The timber call is tricky to blow for me, but I generally blow Open Water calls that require a lot of hot air. Still, the low end calls a re a good bargain. Echo provided me with my "intermediate" level of calling...
Big Guys Best - Not my favorite. They require a lot of compressed air.
Zink Calls - I've never had an easy time with these easy. In the hands of a skilled called (someone on the Zink Pro-Staff) they're spectacular. They also make really good goose calls..probably better than their duck calls.
ABC Calls - Yep, Allen Bliven in North Carolina. His calls are very good, if not comparable or better to the big names listed above. I think they're absolutely beautiful and they have a nice profile. His wooden calls sound absolutely magical. I've had a tough time with the big open water acrylic, but the wooden calls are great. It's my go to call. They have wonderful low ends, great hiccup capability, rattle out the feed calls, and some have a very true sounding ringing hail top end.
Miscellany - There are lots of local makers of calls across the country. In fact, if you have a lathe and patience, you , too could turn your own. Many of these calls lack in performance but can overcompensate with good looks. If you're buying a call for the mantle, buy local and unique. Generally, though, the calls blow terribly.
Now that I've said all of this, you have to make a decision on what is best for you. My only advice, though: Blow it before you buy it, commit to practicing, and use a pintail whistle 80% of the time!
Tuesday, April 17, 2012
Thursday, April 12, 2012
Modern Carvers
Gosh, it's been a while since I've blogged, but I have a real job and it's been a beast lately, but busy usually equals good, and luckily, that's been the case. In my free time, I've been working on a secret rig of cork decoys. Unfortunately, I lack the creative mind to have my own patterns, but I'm creative enough to right-size patterns from old decoys from an earlier, and quite frankly, better period of time in North Carolina's duck hunting lore. And while I do carve my own birds now, and I've only got about 24 to my resume, I'm nowhere near the whiz that some other North Carolina carvers are. Still, several of them have opened the door for me to create and craft. Carving is fun, but we'll only find out if it's effective in November. and while most carvers employ the use of drawknives, carving knives, power carvers, and spokeshaves, I use only a rasp, but shaping cork is a lot easier than wood. I chose cork because it displaces less water and floats higher. And cork is a nit more durable, but I'm rough on anything. And painting the decoys is an absolute blast. Neverthelesss, if you get some time, there are some living carvers worth googling...and collecting...
Nick Sapone
Andy Pope
Kent Hood
Walter Gaskill
Ben Heinemann
Jerry Talton
Cameron McIntrye
Pete Peterson
Have fun...
Nick Sapone
Andy Pope
Kent Hood
Walter Gaskill
Ben Heinemann
Jerry Talton
Cameron McIntrye
Pete Peterson
Have fun...
Monday, April 2, 2012
Types of Duck Boats
Believe it or not, not all duck hunters have duck boats. Those hunters are generally the ones riding in your passenger seat on the way to the boat ramp. Essentially, for every duck hunter with a duck hunting boat, there is another duck hunter without a duck hunting boat. Don't expect them to take the plunge with purchasing a boat, either. It's fat cheaper for them to buy you the occasional biscuit and tank of gas than to purchase a boat. Still, I insist that my hunting partners develop their skills as a solo hunter and make a purchase towards a boat. Generally, the smallest of boats make anywhere within two miles of the boat ramp accessible. However, big water hunters need big water boats. When buying boats not powered by gasoline of diesel, the boats must be paddle-able or sail-able, though I recommend paddle-able!
Non boat owners should consider:
10 foot jonboat - There is no better "starter boat"!. Jonboats can be trailered or placed in the bed of a pick-up truck. I've also seen them on the tops of cars, too. Still, small, aluminum jonboats are light weight and are easily paddled. For the weak of arm and shoulder, a cheap trolling motor and car battery can replace paddles, but ALWAYS take enough paddles for everyone in the boat. Jonboats should never accommodate more than 2 people unless the water is shallow (2 feet or less) and the wind is non-existent. After the trolling motor is boring, a small (very small) gas outboard or mud motor could be attached. These boats will never reach more than 10 mph and be safe. Always expect to piddle around and make sure when navigating at night, that the craft is well lit! And never go out in waters that are susceptible to high winds. A 2 foot chop can sink these boats in no time, since the only floatation in them is generally a PFD!
Canoe - A canoe, to me, is the most dynamic of all duck boats. The v-bow will cut through ripples well and the long length versus the narrow width makes a canoe a fast and relatively stable craft. Some can be outfitted with a trolling motor or a gas powered motor, but that overcomes the canoes top bonuses. It's quiet and stealthy. Long employed by paddling jump-shooters, the canoe can be well camouflaged and paddled. Generally, I like to take a canoe in my big boat, then access the final few hundred yards with the canoe. It's easy to hide, too.
Marsh skiff - These little boats are part kayak, part jonboat, part layout boat and are very efficient as duck blinds and modes of transportation. Some even have built in wheels. The wheels, however are deceptively ineffective. If rolling one down a dyke to your favorite impoundment, the wheels offer little ground clearance, and therefore the wheels become a weight liability. They offer little storage for decoys and guns, too. I view these boats as a highly effective sled, though. They're great for taking stuff to the hunting location, as long as you are not in the boat. Walking and pulling (or pushing) the skiff is the best use of the boat. Usually, they're a dark green or muddy brown color and make excellent layout boats for shallower water. Most puddle duck hunters use these in skinny water and cypress swamps.
Layout boat - The layout boat is a great investment for your hunting partner if you have a large enough boat to carry it. A layout rig is not fully rigged out (in my opinion) unless 100 decoys are involved, too. Generally, these boats are reserved for open water stretches. They can be used in shoally and shallow waters without the use of a tender boat, but a full complement of decoys will not be available. The gray color and low profile of these boats makes them very effective and targeting divers on open water. However, they do come with a heavy price tag and a light payload. Storage is minimal, since the boats are filled with foam for floatation. Still, for the hunter who has a big enough boat and giant stand of decoys, a layout boat is a good investment for his non-boat-owning partner.
Pirogues - These little boats are generally a waste of time in North Carolina, but operate a lot like a marsh skiff.
Rubber Raft - See the dictionary and reference "death trap".
Whatever you do, require that your hunting buds become an active part of the process. If they're not going to buy boats they should shoulder the burden at the gas pump, decoy shop, or breakfast buffet.
Non boat owners should consider:
10 foot jonboat - There is no better "starter boat"!. Jonboats can be trailered or placed in the bed of a pick-up truck. I've also seen them on the tops of cars, too. Still, small, aluminum jonboats are light weight and are easily paddled. For the weak of arm and shoulder, a cheap trolling motor and car battery can replace paddles, but ALWAYS take enough paddles for everyone in the boat. Jonboats should never accommodate more than 2 people unless the water is shallow (2 feet or less) and the wind is non-existent. After the trolling motor is boring, a small (very small) gas outboard or mud motor could be attached. These boats will never reach more than 10 mph and be safe. Always expect to piddle around and make sure when navigating at night, that the craft is well lit! And never go out in waters that are susceptible to high winds. A 2 foot chop can sink these boats in no time, since the only floatation in them is generally a PFD!
Canoe - A canoe, to me, is the most dynamic of all duck boats. The v-bow will cut through ripples well and the long length versus the narrow width makes a canoe a fast and relatively stable craft. Some can be outfitted with a trolling motor or a gas powered motor, but that overcomes the canoes top bonuses. It's quiet and stealthy. Long employed by paddling jump-shooters, the canoe can be well camouflaged and paddled. Generally, I like to take a canoe in my big boat, then access the final few hundred yards with the canoe. It's easy to hide, too.
Marsh skiff - These little boats are part kayak, part jonboat, part layout boat and are very efficient as duck blinds and modes of transportation. Some even have built in wheels. The wheels, however are deceptively ineffective. If rolling one down a dyke to your favorite impoundment, the wheels offer little ground clearance, and therefore the wheels become a weight liability. They offer little storage for decoys and guns, too. I view these boats as a highly effective sled, though. They're great for taking stuff to the hunting location, as long as you are not in the boat. Walking and pulling (or pushing) the skiff is the best use of the boat. Usually, they're a dark green or muddy brown color and make excellent layout boats for shallower water. Most puddle duck hunters use these in skinny water and cypress swamps.
Layout boat - The layout boat is a great investment for your hunting partner if you have a large enough boat to carry it. A layout rig is not fully rigged out (in my opinion) unless 100 decoys are involved, too. Generally, these boats are reserved for open water stretches. They can be used in shoally and shallow waters without the use of a tender boat, but a full complement of decoys will not be available. The gray color and low profile of these boats makes them very effective and targeting divers on open water. However, they do come with a heavy price tag and a light payload. Storage is minimal, since the boats are filled with foam for floatation. Still, for the hunter who has a big enough boat and giant stand of decoys, a layout boat is a good investment for his non-boat-owning partner.
Pirogues - These little boats are generally a waste of time in North Carolina, but operate a lot like a marsh skiff.
Rubber Raft - See the dictionary and reference "death trap".
Whatever you do, require that your hunting buds become an active part of the process. If they're not going to buy boats they should shoulder the burden at the gas pump, decoy shop, or breakfast buffet.
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